A day in advance fit the tubular dry and inflate to 6bar or even 8bar to stretch it.
Check it is true and has no faults; this is important as this is the last point when we would accept back a faulty tub.
Start by removing the tub and fit any valve extensions and ensure the valve core is securely fastened into the valve stem.
The tubular rim should have any old adhesive cleaned off (As far as is practical).
If its a new rim and especially if it is anodised it should be slightly roughened with sand paper to take the sheen off.
Fit the adhesive tape to the rim ensuring the hole for the valve is left open.
I personally leave 10 mm gap each side of the hole as tubs tend to bulge slightly at the valve.
Cut off excess tape (Usually a couple of inches) and peel back similar from each end. Fold backing tape peeled sideways.
Fit the tub back on ensuring the valve is perfectly square to the rim- The bit of exposed tape will help keep it square but you must keep it in mind throughout that it must remain square.
Inflate it to, say, 50 psi (4 bar) and ensure it is as true as you can get it.
For any quality tub (sdeals.com only sell quality tubs!) you just need to ensure the base tape is concentric with the rim: Check by rotating the wheel.
Deflate the tub to about 25 psi (2 bar) and mount.
The important thing here is not to leave all the effort until you are left with a straight bit of tub to fit a rounded section opposite the valve
As you fit the tub stretch even the first bit as you fit it and maintain the force as you work your way round.
Now inflate the tub to full pressure and leave for about 30 minutes or better an hour.
Deflate completely and start to pull the backing tape off the tub
Do this slowly and as you do it lift the tub away from the rim as much as you can
Inevitably you will tear the backing tape a few times, especially when attempting your first fitment.
If so, you have the other end to work with after which you will have to roll the tub off locally to peel a new starter bit of backing tape.
Even if you do not tear the backing tape do not just work one way round, ending back at the valve.
If you do, the slack you build up by lifting the tub will result in the valve being off centre.
Try to finish the job roughly opposite the valve )
The adhesive tape is pressure sensitive so until the tub is inflated and/or pressed down you can still move it relative to the tape.
You can moisten the base tape before you start to help this movement although I do not do this.
Inflate the tub to 50 psi (4 bar) and ensure it is as true as you can get it.
Check again that the valve is square and everything is just how you want it.
If the valve is not square you need to try to gain slack in the tub to one side of the valve and work this right round until you get back to the valve.
Once happy with the tubs seating, inflate to the pressure you will ride it at and check one last time it is true.
In theory, if you sprinted away with it in its present state the tub could shift before your weight fully activates the glue so it pays to press it down right round.
I simply ride it round the block very slowly with virtually no pedal force if it is a back tub and they stay put perfectly.
The tub is now secure for its whole life-span unless you store it unused for a year or more.
Also excessive use in the wet will eventually reduce the tapes effectiveness but much slower than with old fashioned glue.
I know this sounds like a nightmare job but with a little practise its almost a joy, honestly!